Thursday, February 18, 2016

Demolition of Kiosks

Check out this interesting story below (from www.themoscowtimes.com). I thought I would include this on the blog as an interesting time from our lives here in Moscow.

Moscow Demolition: A Primer in Russian Propaganda

Sergei Karpukhin / Reuters
Самостро́й: illegal construction

Yevgeny Parfyonov
Michele A. Berdy
If you've been on a 36-hour flight or locked in a cabin in the woods, you might have missed the news that almost 100 buildings were destroyed in Moscow overnight. But it wasn't a war or terrorist attack. It was the Moscow government putting your tax rubles to work.

Because this was a special operation, the city government and media are using special terminology to describe it. To help you understand it, I've put together a little primer.  

Снос: demolition, the orderly dismantling of a structure. The party line: В ночь на 9 февраля под снос пошло около сотни торговых точек (On the night of Feb. 9 about 100 shops were taken down). The real story: Hundreds of bulldozers appeared in the middle of the night and smashed to smithereens several million dollars' worth of real estate.

Киоски, палатки и павильоны: kiosks, stalls, and pavilions, i.e. small, flimsy trading booths. The party line: Минувший ночью начался демонтаж павильонов, без разрешения возведенных рядом со станциями метро (Last night work began to demolish stalls that had been put up next to metro stations without permission.) The real story: Solid, stone one-, two- and three-story buildings, hooked up to utilities, with licenses, deeds, and court orders certifying their legal status were destroyed.

Самовольная постройка: unauthorized structure, also called самострой (shanty), незаконная постройка (illegally built structure). The party line: Москва избавляется от опасного самостроя (Moscow is getting rid of its dangerous shanties). The real story: Perfectly safe, authorized, inspected buildings were destroyed for no clear reason.

Признанный: adjudicated, declared, determined, i.e., status granted as the result of a legal process. Party line: В разных районах начался снос торговых киосков, палаток и павильонов, признанных столичным правительством потенциально опасным самостроем (In various districts, demolition began of trading kiosks, stalls and pavilions that were determined by the city government to be potentially dangerous illegal construction.) The real story: After every court ruled in favor of the store owners, the city decreed they could tear down buildings without a court order.

Стихийный: primitive, cobbled together, i.e., something that appeared spontaneously. Party line: По словам специалистов, стихийные конструкции могут представлять угрозу для важных городских коммуникаций (Specialists say that these structures, which were quickly thrown up, might be a threat to key city utility lines.) The real story: Although all these solid buildings that have stood for up to 20 years are fully licensed and inspected, my brother-in-law and his buddy said that in a hurricane phone lines might be affected.

So if you read the official news reports, it sounds like a bunch of ugly, illegally constructed market stalls and shanties were torn down to protect citizens' health and safety.
But here's what the free press — well, Facebook — says about it:
It was called: Ночь длинных ковшей (Night of the long diggers); Ночь хрустальных ларьков (Night of the crystal stalls); or just: сегодняшний погром (today's pogrom). Someone wrote that is looked like "Москва подверглась варварской бомбардировке" (barbaric bombing raids hit Moscow).
What I say is: Свято место пусто не бывает (Nature abhors a vacuum).
Let's see how empty those lots are in six months. 

Michele A. Berdy, a Moscow-based translator and interpreter, is author of "The Russian Word's Worth" (Glas), a collection of her columns.


Moscow's Overnight Demolition Blitz Sparks Legal Debate

Sergei Karpukhin / ReutersSome of the demolished pavilions used to be part of the post-90s Moscow cityscape. They sprang up during Yury Luzhkov’s 18 years as Moscow mayor. His successor Sergei Sobyanin is eager to remove the “unsightly” structures.
You could hear a young woman yelling, but her voice was diluted in the sound of bulldozers, smashed glass and metal.
"What are you doing?! There are people still in there! Stop it!" she said.
Several police officers stood outside, watching the bulldozer do its work without any intention to intervene. The woman continued yelling: "The are still inside! Can't you drag them out?" she said.
Eventually, reluctantly, a police officer responded. "We told them to vacate the premises," he said, monotone.
The bulldozer kept thrashing the retail pavilion, and the people kept screaming.
Moscow streets are full of scruffy, temporary retail structures. They grew and flourished during the '90s and 2000s, as convenience stores of every hue filled the empty scopes left by Soviet city planners. They clung like old trees to buildings, metro stations and public spaces. Some of them grew into shopping malls and café chains.
On the night of Feb. 9, Moscow city authorities signaled its intention to remove them from the cityscape. It began the process by demolishing 97 structures overnight in an operation described by Russian media as a "night of long shovels."
Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin and his team have long vowed to bring order to city planning, and have criticized temporary retail structures as being unsightly, unhygienic and unregulated. They argue that they were perfectly entitled to demolish the structures that, they say, were built illegally.
But the demolition, conducted under the dark of night and with police back-up, looked more like a military operation than a legal procedure. With paperwork in hand, the store owners had every reason to question the legality of the process.
Sergei Karpukhin / Reuters
Kropotkinskaya metro station was home to six pavilions with shops and cafes. Three have been demolished while three were not on the list of targeted buildings. All six pavilions have the same owner.

'Night of Long Shovels'

It was two months ago that City Hall first announced its decision to demolish a total of 104 kiosks and pavilions. A demolition list was published by City Hall and, its officials claim, all owners were informed by mail that their "illegal" property was earmarked for demolition.
The owners were "allowed" to take the pavilions down themselves. "We informed them about the deadline and even postponed it for one month," said Alexei Ionkin, a senior official of the Moscow state real estate inspectorate. "The deadline for 97 buildings ran out at midnight on Feb. 9," he said. As night fell, the bulldozers rolled.
Yet many store owners say that the sight of the bulldozers came as a complete surprise. Some establishments, like a three-story restaurant in downtown Moscow never thought authorities would follow through on their threats, an employee told The Moscow Times.
When the workers showed up and began dismantling the building and property inside, the owner managed to "negotiate" a 30-minute stay of execution. This allowed him to remove money stored in the restaurant's vault. That "negotiation" cost him 20,000 rubles ($256).
Others say they realized they had a target on their backs, and had been fighting a rearguard campaign for several years. Konstantin Mikheyev, aide to entrepreneur Anna Azidi — who owned six pavilions near Kropotkinskaya metro station — said his team had been in a legal battle with City Hall since 2013. City authorities had consistently argued that the pavilions were illegal. But 18 months ago, the court ruled in favor of the businessman.
Moscow officials have repeatedly appealed the ruling. Another court hearing has been scheduled for later in February. Until then, an injunction supposed to prevent demolition was in force, said Mikheyev.
The bulldozers apparently ignored the court injunction, and by midday of Feb. 9, three out of the six pavilions had been destroyed.

Legal Limbo

Activists say City Hall has ignored dozens of court rulings in its demolition program.
City Hall disagrees. "The demolished pavilions were built in violation of city regulations, they were built on different utility lines and there could be many negative consequences," says Alexei Nemeryuk, head of the city's department of trade.
Another bureaucrat, Alexei Ionkin, representing the city's real estate inspectorate, argued that shop keepers had only been allocated land slots for temporary structures. "They erected capital buildings while they weren't allowed to, and that's why we've deemed them squatter settlements," Ionkin said.
But how long is temporary? Some of the buildings were built 25 years ago. According to Alexei Navalny's anti-corruption foundation colleague Georgy Alburov, most of them were registered in cadaster as capital buildings, which suggests the authorities were aware of the issue and considered it perfectly legal for decades. This, after all, was the way that business was done in Russia during the '90s: With connections and corruption, it was easy to obtain genuine property rights for anything.
Navalny argues that the store owners, many of whom are bona fide title holders, are the only ones who have suffered. Corrupt officials, who let the construction happen and turned a blind eye over all the years, have been left alone, he says.
Sergei Karpukhin / Reuters
700 bulldozers were deployed to demolish 97 buildings throughout Moscow. Although the demolition was allegedly scheduled during the night to avoid inconveniencing commuters, traffic around the sites was disrupted.
The official position of Moscow authorities is that temporary constructions are inherently dangerous. Since July 2015 they have also had amendments in the Civic Code to back up their arguments. These amendments give municipal authorities the right to demolish structures "built alongside utility lines" without any additional legal moves.
But many of the entrepreneurs have documents that demonstrate full legal ownership of the properties, proper leasing of the land, and registration in the official public registry. In other words, they are the exact opposite of squatter settlements. "Most of the owners of demolished pavilions had all the necessary paperwork," says Alexei Petropolsky, a lawyer.
Petropolsky describes the authorities' position as "absolute legal arbitrariness." "City Hall is simply not permitted to demolish anything without a proper investigation and a court ruling," the lawyer said. Moreover, if a construction is in place for more than three years, and during these three years the city government has made no legal claim, it has no right to sue, he says.

What Does It Mean for Business?

According to City Hall's own figures, Sobyanin's "night of long shovels" may have left 2,000 people out of work. It also sent an obvious message to all small businesses in Moscow: There are no documents or court rulings that can protect your assets from being destroyed by those in power.
Entrepreneurs polled by The Moscow Times indicated a reluctance to do business on such shaky conditions. Head of City Hall's department of trade, Alexei Nemeryuk denied the authorities should be concerned about a possible business exodus.
"We're sending the opposite signal," he argued. "If you oblige the law, you can work here."
But the figures do not lie: Small businesses are shrinking in Moscow. In the first nine months of 2015, the number employed in small and medium enterprises dropped by 45,000 when compared to similar figures from 2013 (down from 1.54 million). And that, according to economist Natalya Zubarevich, means that operating conditions for such enterprises are deteriorating.
Moscow's bureaucrats could be forgiven for not noticing.
Taxes collected from those working under the simplified tax system made up just 3.13 percent of total city revenues in 2015 — 1.7 trillion rubles overall. This means that small business revenues brought in just over half of what the city spent on urban amenities, like benches and flowerbeds.
The revenue contribution of small street retailers to the Moscow's budget is insignificant, says Zubarevich. Even so, the message is not a good one at a time of recession.
"Economic crisis is an inappropriate moment for such operations," she said.
For Sergei Rak, chairman of the consumer market committee at the Moscow branch of the small business association Opora Rossii, the decision not to consult properly was "typical" of City Hall. "They make a decision, and they carry it out, no matter what reasons there are against it," he told The Moscow Times.
Sergei Karpukhin / Reuters
"We are not a squatter settlement!" Owners of pavilions in danger of demolition claim that they hold the legal paperwork necessary to conduct business. 

What Is to Come?

Officials have said that no new retail outlets will be built in place of the demolished structures. They refute speculation that the demolition was a cover to clear out lucrative spots for friendly businessmen.
But neither, it seems, are authorities planning to offer new retail spaces to the owners of demolished pavilions. "They can rent something themselves — the rental market is thriving now," Nemeryuk said. City Hall have also said no preference will be given to the former owners in future kiosk auctions either.
In theory, the store owners were due compensation, but City Hall is playing hardball. The owners were entitled to cash only if they voluntarily canceled their property rights, authorities say. "No one from the list did it, as far as I know, so their pavilions were demolished forcibly," said Ionkin.
Both City Hall's department of trade and the real estate inspectorate told The Moscow Times that the operation to remove "illegal" structures was not yet over. They were, however, unable to provide an exact number of structures that had been earmarked for construction, nor give a date that bulldozers would next take to the streets.
In the meantime, some of the owners of demolished pavilions say they are ready to go to court to contest the legality of the demolition.
They are likely to get some support from ordinary Muscovites. "The situation in Moscow is very tense as it is, with authorities pushing unpopular measures like paid parking zones and the endless replacing of sidewalks," said Natalya Zorkaya, expert at the independent pollster Levada Center.
But this is unlikely to turn into revolutionary fervor. It will, one suspects, take a great deal more to shake Russians out of a default position of falling into line.
Contact the authors at d.litvinova@imedia.ru and v.kolotilov@imedia.ru. Follow the authors on Twitter at @dashalitvinovv and @MoscowTimes. 

See also:
Below is a picture from www.englishrussia.com of our Krapotinskaya metro station area with Christ the Saviour Cathedral in the background which is really close to our apartment. 




Friday, February 5, 2016

Japanese Attaché dinner - Feb. 4/16

Dinner at the home of the Japanese Attaché
Shingo & Satoko

In this diplomatic world we are fortunate to experience many different cultures and cuisines. Last night was a dinner party at the home of the Japanese Attaché and it was a fantastic evening filled with several different alcoholic beverages (champagne, wine, saki and finally, because we are in Russia, I had strawberry vodka and it was delicious) and, of course, great company and great food! Here are a few pictures from our evening.

Cool Samurai doll in their home

Our menu for the evening....

This was interesting because everything was soft enough to eat it with chopsticks! I love the little place cards with each country's flag and our names written in Japanese. Last name first, then title/rank, then first name.
This was probably my least favorite... a custard dish with vegetables, but still I appreciate the opportunity to try new things!



The tempura vegetables were delicious with a green tea salt (top left)! 
Of course we had to have sushi! I was looking forward to that. I even enjoyed the rice wrapped in tofu. Craig would not even try it - what a baby! lol



Who knew I would ever try green tea ice cream? It was refreshing. They told us that normally they do not eat dessert because some of the main dishes are already sweet enough for them.


The beautiful little flower arrangement that was on the table and then they gave it to us as a parting gift. Each bouquet for each couple was designed with the flag colours from each country. What a great idea!

The group: Japan, Kazakhstan, USA, and Canada represented. Notice our little slippers. Before you enter a Japanese home you must remove your shoes and put on slippers.

 
Of course no Japanese dinner party is complete without a Kimono. I learned that the word "kimono" means "thing to wear"(ki "wear" and mono "thing"). A kimono is always used at important and formal events. This kimono - a Uchikake kimono - was very old and apparently would be worn by a bride. The cranes on it represent long-lasting love because cranes mate with one partner for life. The evergreen trees also represent the same thing.

An example of another traditional Uchikake kimono with cranes
And trying one on!


And being silly!



Sunday, January 24, 2016

Tenerife, Canary Islands (Spain) - January 16-23, 2016

Tenerife, Canary Islands
a.k.a. "The Canaries" 
 
 
 

The Canary Islands are a Spanish archipelago located 100 km West of the coast of Morocco. Population: 2,128,647 (2015). Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands and is a very unique place...it reminds me of Maui because of the mountains and volcanic landscape, but the terrain is MUCH more hilly with very few flat sections, which made driving fun! All the islands combined are only 7493 sq km. The name "Islas Canarias" is likely derived from the Latin name meaning "Island of the Dogs" as it apparently had a lot of dogs. Although, some say the "dogs" were actually a species of monk seals (endangered) and no longer present in the Canaries. Silly me, I thought it would have been named after a canary - the bird! All of the Canary Islands are volcanic in origin. At 3718 m high, the Teide volcano peak on Tenerife is the highest mountain (The 47,000 acre park is a World Heritage Site) in Spain and 3rd tallest volcano on earth (on a volcanic ocean island). As you can see from this sign, it is teeny-tiny compared to the largest volcano in our Solar System - Olympus Mons - on Mars.


We arrived in Tenerife to an absolutely gorgeous, sunny day (+25 Celcius). Our hotel, H10 Conquistador was in a fantastic location in Las Americas, on the ocean (with a fantastic boardwalk for miles and miles). I highly recommend the "privilege" option because it includes a beautiful outdoor patio area on the 6th Floor with fantastic 270 degree views, a hot tub, free drinks and an indoor area with couches and tv. We went 1/2 board, which for us turned out to be a good choice - included breakfast and either lunch or dinner and with the privilege club, free drinks (9 am - 8 pm). The hotel room itself was small, but had a nice big balcony with a great view of the sunset over the Atlantic ocean. I'd recommend the hotel, but it is a little "old" in terms of the structure itself and the guests. I felt a little bit like I was in a Florida retirement village, but we didn't mind that - it also meant very few children.

Our first full day we headed out in our rental car to explore the island. It was a fantastic day driving all around the coast and in the mountains! I LOVE mountains! The winding, twisty roads are all part of the fun! We went by Santa Cruz and stopped at a black-sand, local "nudy" beach! We didn't know people were nude until we started walking on it and taking pictures of the beautiful cliff backdrop! 

Poinsettia plants in Santa Cruz - you see lots of them in the city

Playa de las Teresitas - fantastic views from here! It looks like a great beach too. White(ish) sand is imported... most of their beaches are naturally black volcanic sand.


Beautiful...and my handsome hubby!


Other side of cliff in above picture

Playa de Las Gaviotas - Northeast of Santa Cruz

Same beach as above - yes, those are nudists in the background, but it was about the water, the black sand and the cliffs!


This shows the beautiful layers of colour in the landscape (somewhere along the highway on our road trip around the island)
I just love the beautiful views everywhere you turn! The clouds were moving in VERY fast...it was a unique site to see. The temperature in this area was about 14c... a cool 8 degrees cooler than by the ocean.


Not much room on these mountain roads...especially for buses!

View of Mt. Teide coming into Puerto de La Cruz


Craig's favorite "tree" along the route... looks more like a REALLY big weed to me.

My favorite cactus plant - reminds me of swans necks. Hey, apparently they call them "Swans' Neck Agave"... there you go! (agave attenuata)

Botanical Gardens - Puerto de la Cruz
 
I love these flowers from Brazil

Botanical Garden - didn't get the name of this one

Funky tree in the Botanical Garden


Stretching turtle in the Botanical Gardens in Puerto de la Cruz. Good balancing act also!
 We did a LOT on our first day with the trip around the whole island (or as much as you can by car). As well as the beach and botanical garden we also stopped at Loro Parque (Parrot Park). Not only is this a great zoo, but it's a lovely tropical garden also. I always have mixed feelings about zoos because I feel sad for the caged animals. The Gorilla in particular at this zoo made me feel a little sad (they have a beautiful area, but still). He was gorgeous though! I could have watched him for hours.... just so human-like. Of course, the killer whales, dolphins and sea lions are so entertaining and intelligent too!

My gorilla friend... there are 7 gorillas in this park and their home is very well done and even includes constant ventilation and in-floor heating! There is just glass separating us here...hmmm.


Shark tunnel

Penguin area

Our second full day in Tenerife we took the beautiful drive up to Mt. Teide (volcano - 7500 m or 24,600 feet from base on ocean floor) seeing some amazing views along the way with lots of twisty, narrow roads followed by a cable car ride and a breathy hike. It is important to note that if you want to hike completely to the top of the volcano, you need a trail pass, which you have to purchase in advance. I wish we had known this. However, having said that, even the small hike we took from where the cable car dropped us off was a bit challenging because the air up there is so thin (lack of oxygen). Because of the altitude we were both sucking wind a bit and had to make little pit stops. We didn't realize it, but we started heading down the walking path to the bottom (which would be about a 5 hour hike apparently) and soon realized we would have to walk back up to take the cable car back down! lol

Cool rock formations on the drive up to Mt. Teide

Mt. Teide - cable car is on the right side of the peak

On walking trail at nearly the top of Mt. Teide

Gorgeous views!

Hot air coming from this hole in the ground... Craig's warming his hands because we went from +24 c at sea level to zero degrees Celsius near the top.... you can see in this picture how far we still are from the top.

I had to borrow Craig's jacket ... I was a wee bit chilly! We had brought gloves and sensible clothing for going up there, but I forgot it all in the hotel! Ooops!
I was a bit of a bad girl and climbed up here for the photo... it was calling my name, I had to go!

A self-timer shot of the two of us as we were unknowingly heading down the mountain path

Love the landscape! So unique.

I couldn't decide between this photo and the one above, so you're getting both.

Now we were back down and near the base of the mountain where these cool rock formations are.
Thank you random tourist for taking our photo of the rock formations near Mt.Teide!

A single goat on the side of the mountain at a lookout point on our way down from Mt. Teide

Love this view...so varied.
View at night from the privilege lounge /patio area on 6th floor

Same as above... just a little more towards the sunsetting

Hot tub on the same patio area on 6th floor

Craig taking advantage of the free booze!

Siam Water Park - waiting for it to open!

One of the rides at the water park... you can just see the inner tube



Monkey Park
(Breeding centre for endangered animals in Arona - near Los Cristianos and Las Americas)
If you want to get up close and personal with some monkeys, this is a wonderful place to do so. Be careful though...some of them aren't so friendly! If in doubt, just ask the person there because they know each personality. In several places online it said it was ok to bring in grapes and bananas to feed them, but we were NOT allowed to do so because they said they were fed a very special diet. You have to buy food there - it's a mixture of apples, peas, carrots and green beans. We were told to arrive early when they were still hungry because by midday they just wanted to sleep in the tree tops.
 
We love monkies...so we just had to go to Monkey Park!


Red-footed something... I neglected to get the names of the monkeys. This ones' face reminds me of a bat!

Love his pose and expression!

I'm not sure why these little guys are all over the ground, but they were very sweet and gentle. My Mom would have HATED these "rodents" running around her feet!

Lemur - I think this is a "ring-tailed lemur" - In the wild, found only in Madagascar. This one was very gentle and had soft little paws. Can you tell I'm loving it!? I was trying to get him to come up in my lap, but he wouldn't. He only liked the peas and beans.

Craig's a brave money feeder
and guinea pig feeder too!

Not AS brave with the birds... he swore that the bird just wanted to bite his hand and not take the food!

The beautiful flowers found all over the island - a great pop of colour in the volcanic  landscape

A cute little tapas bar "Tas-K" in Los Gigantes. That's Craig waving in the back left!

Los Gigantes


We referred to these as the "grow-ops", but a lot of them were banana tree plantations
very large cacti

Latin night at the buffet!



Spanish night entertainment


Walkin' the beach...
 Surfer dudes and dudettes



Just enjoying a little fun on the swing in the sun!

REALLY enjoying some awesome king prawns on a beachfront patio! Yum!
I'll leave you with these two sunset photos from our hotel
Lots of beautiful sunsets... it's how we liked to end our afternoons