Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Astana, Kazakhstan (October 5-9, 2015)



Astana, Kazakhstan
As of 1997 the area (Akmola) became the Capital city of Kazakhstan. In 1998 it was re-named Astana - meaning "The Capital" (in Kazakh), which is the 5th name given for this area.

2014 census: population 835,153 
Last of the Soviet Republic to declare independence in 1991.
It is about a 3 hour flight from Moscow and it is three hours ahead of Moscow time.

We took an overnight flight leaving Moscow at 11 pm. We arrived at 5 am local time and waited for breakfast to open at our hotel at 6. We ate and promptly went to bed until noon! We needed that snooze to head out for a walking tour of the area. We stayed at the Hilton Garden Inn, which turned out to be a very convenient location for site seeing and also because the Canadian Embassy is only a 5 minute walk from the hotel, which was convenient for Craig for his meeting with the Ambassador.

Astana is a planned city such as Brasilia in Brazil. The master plan was designed by a Japanese Architect named Kisho Kurokawa. It has many government buildings and has lots of futuristic ones. Because of some of the architecture, it reminded me a bit of Abu Dhabi. It will be hosting Expo 2017.

It's a really windy city, which can make the temperatures feel that much colder. Except for that first afternoon which was cool, it was beautiful, sunny and warm, which was nice because we returned to Moscow with snow on the ground! Temperatures in Astana can reach +35 Celsius in summer and -40 in winter. It is the 2nd coldest capital in the world next to Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia (a title formerly held by Ottawa, Canada until Astana attained capital status in 1997).

This picture is from the internet... it gives a beautiful view of their traditional dress and how beautiful the people are.

We did our own walking tour and took some photos of the interesting architecture around us.

Astana became the capital of Kazakhstan in 1997. Much of its modern architecture is striking in its scale and design, especially in contrast to the vast, open steppes that surround it.
This internet photo is a pretty good view of the city from behind the Presidential Palace with blue dome, then the "beer cans" and the Baiterek Tower. The strange tent-like structure in the background is the Khan Shatyr shopping mall (complete with a whole entertainment floor with rides and games and a beach with sand). If you exit the mall you will see a great view of the Tower framed by the arch of the headquarters for the state-owned gas and oil company. As you can see, the city just kind of ends abruptly to flat lands. Apparently the nearest town is 1200 km away.

This gives you an idea of what the amusement center is like in the big "tent" mall. It's quite incredible really. I couldn't get to the "beach", but that would be awesome when it's -35 degrees in January!





The Canadian Embassy - I just happened to notice the flag and then we realized it was the Embassy!


The Baiterek Tower (meaning "tall poplar") is a symbol of the capital. It is 344 ft. high and allows for nice views of the city. Unfortunately there isn't an outdoor deck, so all pictures have to be through the glass, which doesn't make for the best pictures.
from inside the tower...
The two golden towers AKA "the beer cans" - built in 1998 with the front of the Presidential Palace (Ak Orda) in the background (built in 2004).
The 39-story Triumph of Astana opened in 2006 and modeled after the Seven Sisters skyscrapers in Moscow. The Canadian Embassy is the short building in front with black lines... and you may be able to make out the flag... we stood there for a while waiting for the wind to blow the flag just right for the picture!

Weird curvy high rises in the background and some embassy houses right in the middle of the downtown.

Interesting buildings that look "cracked".


The pyramid is the Palace of Peace and Reconciliation (aka Pyramid of Peace and Accord - opened in 2006). The building to the right is called Shabyt - Palace of Creativity (aka the dog bowl). Lots of construction going on in this city... the population has doubled since it became the capital and obviously continues to grow.

Love the pedestrian areas and especially this one with the painted horses. Reminds me of Boston and the painted cows. They have a LOT of horse statues in this city... they also have horse meat on restaurant menus. :(  One thing they don't have - at least not in the downtown core - is homeless. We didn't see one person begging in the streets here, which is a first.


The State Theatre of Opera and Ballet... I would love to see it in summer as other internet photos show it with elaborate flower beds. It's a huge, impressive building.

Front view of the theatre
 
More horse statues behind theatre with tent mall in background

Inside the "tent" mall

my view as I came up the staircase after exiting the "tent" mall.... I spent a fair amount of time walking around town and in malls - 5 of them! I bought some beautiful silver jewelry (ring and necklace), a slogan t-shirt (Should Could Would Did) and traditional felt slippers.
 
Craig loved this fur hat! This was one of the few souvenir shops we found. I bought some toe-curled-up felt slippers. He did NOT buy this hat.


We called this the "cash cab"... not because we negotiated with "some guy" and paid cash, but because the lights reminded us of the tv quiz show in the cab... we did not, however, win any money in this cab. We did get back to the hotel safely though. People flag down random cars for rides in Astana like they did in Tashkent. We didn't realize until he was here that this was the type of taxi the restaurant (Line Brew) called for us. As usual, we had a great time exploring this city together in between his work commitments. Loving the adventure!

Friday, October 2, 2015

Moscow International Festival - "Circle of Light" 2015

The Circle of Light Moscow International Festival is a unique event at which Russian and International designers create light masterpieces and multimedia shows utilizing the metropolitan city as a canvas! As part of the festival there is an ART VISION Videomapping competition between professionals and aspiring artists from all over the world.

It is going on all over the city, but last night we went to the Bolshoi Theatre to take a look (and a listen, it's all set to music).

The facade of the Bolshoi Theatre went from this:

 
 
To this: It's pretty amazing what they can do with light!

































Monday, September 28, 2015

Tour of the Bolshoi Theatre & Ballet Performance - September 2015


Internet photo of the theatre and fountain

The Bolshoi Theatre is a historical theatre in downtown Moscow, Russia. The word "Bolshoi" sounds so beautiful, but it just means "big or grand" in English. The theatre's original name was The Imperial Bolshoi Theatre of Moscow. At the time, all Russian theatres were imperial property. Moscow and St. Petersburg each had only two theatres. One for opera & ballet and one for plays. Because opera and ballet were considered nobler than drama, the opera houses were named "Grand" or "big" and the drama houses were called the Smaller Theatre - or "Maly" meaning "small", "lesser" or "little".

It is by far the worlds largest ballet company having more than 200 dancers. The main building has been rebuilt and renovated several times during its history and is a major landmark of Moscow and Russia. A picture of the facade is on the 100-ruble banknote. 

On October 28, 2011, the theatre was reopened after an extensive 6-year renovation (lucky us!). The acoustics in the Bolshoi's historical stage are said to be among the best in the world. 

The ballet company was founded in 1776.  Initially it held performances in a private home, but then acquired the Petrovka Theatre and in 1780, it began producing plays and operas and established what was to become the Bolshoi Theatre. The Petrovka Theatre was destroyed by fire in 1805 and was replaced in 1808 with the New Arbat Imperial Theatre. That theatre was destroyed by fire when the French invaded Moscow in 1812. The current theatre was built between 1821 and 1824 and opened its doors on 18 January, 1825. 

On January 17, 2013, Sergei Filin, the Bolshoi's ballet director was attacked with sulfuric acid and as a result has lost most of his eyesight. A male dancer was later charged with the crime. 

Our tour guide was Maria through www.toursofmoscow.com. There was a group of 8 of us who joined in the tour, but before we met for lunch at the Grand Cafe Dr. Zhivago. It was a beautiful cafe connected to the National Hotel. It is ranked #80 out of nearly 12000 restaurants in the city and it is a beautiful experience. Silly me, I forgot to take any photos, so here are a couple from the internet. Apparently others haven't taken great photos of this restaurant either - it is more beautiful than these pictures show. I think we all enjoyed our lunches and then Alice left to go back home with her sister Julies' daughter. We walked a few short blocks to the Bolshoi Theatre where we met our guide.
 
The china in this restaurant was beautiful!


After lunch was our tour. Although it was a lovely tour of the public areas of the theatre, I was kind of hoping for a truly "backstage" tour experience seeing some dancers, their backstage area and costume room, but unfortunately, we did not see any of that. We did, however, get a great perspective on the theatre itself and were able to see the depth of the stage behind what the audience sees. Nobody is allowed in the Presidential box, but we saw it from afar. We went on a day where there were no dancers in the building, so we did not see any dancers rehearsing. We saw the workers setting up the stage for that evening's performance. As we went around and I sat in some of the seats, I was surprised to realize first hand that you cannot see the stage at ALL from some areas!
Left to right - Julie (Alices' sister), Tina, Francine, Kerry, Helen, Shirly, Vera (Helens' Mom) and Tanya

We were ALL supposed to be doing a crossed-legged "ballerina-esk" pose...not all participated!
From near stage towards the back of theatre

Presidential Box Seats
Gorgeous chandelier from top level that is cleaned once a year and light bulbs changed

Presidents' Box Seat from stage area
 
Hall where patrons gather before the performance
Vera and Helen in grand hall





 After tour drink at O2 Lounge rooftop of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel
Great city views from O2 Lounge!

 Our next time at the Bolshoi Theatre was Sunday, September 27th, 2015. Our first ballet experience in Moscow. Craig purchased the tickets for us for our 16th Anniversary and presented them to me in Prague. Thank you love! Prior to the ballet, we went to lunch at Savva Restaurant in the old Metropol Hotel, which I was told used to be a KGB building. The hotel opened in 1901 and in 1917 the Bolshevist government moved to Moscow from St. Petersburg (formerly Petrograd) and the Metropol Hotel became the residence of the All-Russian Central Executive Committee (RCEC). It was then called the Second House of Soviets. In the 1930's, the Metropol was returned to its original status of a top-class hotel.  

The ballet performance was Shakespeare's "Taming of the Shrew" (ballet version). It was a wonderful performance, but it was much more contemporary than I am used to seeing. I missed the elaborate costumes and sets of former ballets I have been to like the Nutcracker. It still was an enjoyable afternoon at the ballet spent with friends and my wonderful husband Craig!

Photo of SAVVA Restaurant
This is a view from the patio of the restaurant we ate at before going to the theatre... you can see how close it is to the Bolshoi! That's the Bolshoi in the background with the pillars

Off to the ballet!

Rob and Alice joined us for an afternoon of ballet!

Reception hall prior to the ballet

The "new stage" theatre - apparently more comfortable than the "dining chairs" at the Historical stage of the Bolshoi Theatre

Selfie before the show began

Last photo - no photos allowed during the performance